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Forman and Sons

April 22, 2016

Forman and Sons, Stour Road, Fish Island, E3 2NT

It’s hard to miss this slab of salmon pink architecture when you see it, but it’s a question of seek and ye shall find rather than attracting passing trade through its doors.

The mothership has once again heaved into view in East London and I thought this might be the perfect spot for Sunday lunch. Manager Inda is the pinnacle of pleasant as he shows us round the viewing gallery above the smokery. A civilised start to our Sunday lunch and fascinating to boot. This famous smokery processes three tonnes of salmon a day and we watch on with a meditative fascination as we see salmon pin-boned by hand with a craft and experience that demands respect and makes us evaluate our plates with newfound awe.

My starter of warm potato blini, rosetted with smoked salmon and dotted with capers and diced shallots is a joy to behold. Mother’s starter of seared tuna and salmon sashimi-style was so pretty I felt compelled to take a photo (usually something I’m snobbish about). Heralded as one of her favourite starters of all time, we’re off to a fine start. The Silver Fox’s trio of salmon (beetroot cured, smoked and wild) is also stunning in both composition and flavours.

In a moment of confusion mother asks what’s the difference between ‘lean’ and ‘fatty’ and we both look at each other’s bodies. Awkward.

Mains are equally delightful. The silver fox’s herb encrusted salmon is a great hunk of fish, the size of which has never seen before by any of us gourmands. I am jealous as my fish cake whilst delicious, is on the small side.

Mother, who, without irony, was talking about two delicate starters rather than a starter and a main, actually plumped for Belly of Pork (not famous for being a light alternative) with a generous portion of crackling (again not part of Slimming World’s regime).

We were all too full for puddings but we had a rather marvellous time: unalloyed quality in an interesting setting with unparalleled views of the Olympic Park.

Three ate handsomely, two courses each for just under £75. Not bad, and on the day we went we accepted an offer of a free bottle of quality rose. What more could one possibly want from a Sunday lunch apart from an after-show nap?

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